Location: Tavistock, Devon
Perfect for: Food lovers, rolling hills and the coast
Farmers’ markets, rugged coastlines, and sun-drenched beaches; rock pools, Dartmoor ponies, and pretty little villages – Devon is a county full of Old English charm. Home to Britain’s oldest known settlement, a 400 million year old UNESCO Global Geopark, and one of Europe’s top Neanderthal ice age caves, it also hosts the stunning English Riviera and part of the Jurassic Coast.
There’s a lot to love about Glazebrook House, where we’re staying – it’s unashamedly indulgent, decadently themed around Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland and is about 30 minutes drive from the coast. It’s also right on the doorstep of Dartmoor National Park.
Glazebrook House Review
18.00
Stepping through the crenelated porch into the lobby of Glazebrook House, something rare happens – we’re lost for words! It’s like we’ve stepped into the home of a rock star with exquisite taste in interiors. What an entrance – in every sense!
18.05
“Welcome to Glazebrook House!” the cheerful receptionist trills, “You’re in White Rabbit – it’s my favourite room.” As we follow her upstairs to it – noticing that all the rooms have names referencing Alice In Wonderland – we immediately see why.
“Wow” we exclaim; this is one of the most beautiful rooms we’ve ever seen. The vast bedframe is covered in sheepskin, the bedspread inky black velvet.
Chandeliers hang dramatically either side of it on long ropes, giant framed playing cards adorn the wall and there’s a seating area with plush velvet armchairs in front of a grand fireplace. It’s incredibly luxurious, without being OTT.
Our host shows us the mini-bar in an antique armoire. There’s nothing mini about it; it’s very generously-stocked. The best is yet to come though: “It’s all complimentary!” she tells us. We’re not sure we can be hearing correctly, but it’s true – everything’s included! Left to settle in, we crack open a bottle of wine and collapse beaming on the sumptuous bed.
18.45
Before dinner we decide to freshen up. Opening the door to the bathroom we gasp in amazement again. “Look at that floor!” I exclaim, admiring the monochrome marble, which I can feel under my bare feet is heated.
“How about that tub?” says Monsieur 2, clocking a bath that’s roughly the size of a super-yacht.
There’s also a dreamy rainfall shower, White Company products and the fluffiest towels; this bathroom’s been designed with love!
20.00
After a luxuriant shower for me and a soak in the tub for Monsieur 2, we reluctantly leave the room – it’s that cosy – and go downstairs. From the chic cocktail bar we order perfectly-mixed pre-dinner cocktails and enjoy them on the pretty garden terrace. Paradise!
20.30
Moving through that fabulous lobby to the restaurant, the design continues to delight. One wall is covered with blue and white china plates, another with silver salvers. It’s eccentric but also very tasteful and we instantly feel at ease.
Head waiter Toby, a tall handsome chap with a sparkling sense of humour, guides us through the eclectic menu. We’re wowed by everything we order; I start with a black pudding Scotch egg, its crumb much crisper and lighter than I’m expecting, while Monsieur 2’s Thai green curry mussels is a powerfully-spiced bowlful topped with a clever coconut foam.
My main – cod with mash and stuffed marrow flower – sounds simple but is in fact a complex balance of tastes and textures, the crunch of hazelnuts contrasting with the silky mash. Monsieur 2 can’t even bring himself to give me a forkful of his Cajun-spiced lamb with cabbage and charred lettuce; “Sorry darling, “ he appeases me, “like you, it’s just too gorgeous to share!”
From a list boasting ten local cheeses we choose five, and devour them with home-made biscuits and tangy fruit chutney. With a bottle of a robust Malbec and Toby’s attentive, playfully informal service, it’s a meal to remember.
22.30
We almost run upstairs to White Rabbit; we can’t wait to be in that beautiful bed! Under the Egyptian cotton covers we nibble on truffles from a box marked ‘Eat me!’, watch TV and simply marvel at the beauty of our home for the night until, like the dormouse at the Mad Hatter’s tea party, we’re fast asleep.
08.45
Waking from the best night’s sleep, we shower and return to the restaurant for breakfast. After deluxe Dorset Cereal and freshly-squeezed juice, we choose hot dishes from an unusual but mouth-watering menu. Monsieur 2 loves the luxury of truffled duck egg with smoked halibut, while I kickstart my day with nasi goreng – spicy rice – topped with a fried egg. “This is one of the best breakfasts I think we’ve ever had!” my better half suggests, and I can’t disagree.
10.45
Before we leave, we tour the hotel grounds. They’re beautiful, in places immaculately manicured, in others wild and unkempt, with quiet secluded glades seemingly around every corner.
Curiouser and curiouser about the Alice In Wonderland inspiration, we ask the owner who explains; “When my wife first came to see the house she kept getting lost and said it was like being in Wonderland!”
After too short a time here we certainly feel like we’ve found Wonderland. And like Alice, we’re tempted to refuse to leave, but we have reservations on the GWR train home.
As we settle down into our sumptuous seats, we gaze out of the train window and bid beautiful Devon adieu, knowing, like Alice, that we’ll be back Through the Looking Glass again. Our train purrs agreeably, carrying us swiftly back to London, and we nod off, contented after a fabulous weekend
Travel
We travelled with Great Western Railway from London to Plymouth, and changed onto a different train from Plymouth to Gunnislake, the nearest train station to Horn of Plenty.
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